Tip for Authenticating Paintings

Many times, non-scientific information is key to verifying ownership and/or authenticating an object. For instance, James McNeil Whistler was known to  use super-long brushes so he could paint while standing far away from his canvas.

Art experts can use facts such as that to help them authenticate paintings by evaluating the thickness of the paint, the stroke style, etc.

Nostalgia Drives
the Collectibles Market

Popular brands from past generations are likely to retain their value in the collectibles market. A wide range of promotional items are produced by marketers--from lunch boxes, cups, and pencil cases to tote bags, coin holders, and wallets and from cardboard pop-up displays, posters, and brochures to banks, umbrellas, and key chains.

Some people collect items for the objects itself, sometimes narrowing the field by the era. For example, a person might collect branded tape measures manufactured in the 1960s. Others elect an industry category such as soft drinks and look for objects produced by manufacturers within that industry. For instance, you could seek out trays, banks, glasses, posters, buttons, or point-of-sale displays from Pepsi, Mountain Dew, and Coca Cola. Other people collect any item within a brand. For example, a person might decide to collect every promotional item produced by Coca Cola, KFC, or Campbell's soup.

Prices are determined by many of the same factors as any collectible or antique: rarity, scarcity, trends, condition, association, and provenance. One additional factor is the artwork. Some of the illustrations used on promotional items are spectacular--refined, elegant, bold, and colorful. Usually objects that feature artwork of this caliber are more popular--and as such, fetch higher prices.

One universal warning--be alert for fakes.

Snow Globes

Snow globes and domes are charming—and affordable—collectibles. Subject matter varies from touristy (i.e., local-themed souvenirs) to kitsch (i.e., flamingos) and from the historical (i.e., French originals dating from the late 19th century) to the religious (i.e., angels and Christmas-themed objects).

Clocks

Clocks remain one of the most popular collectibles, and as with many things, technology and innovation affect design.

The pendulum, for instance, was designed by the Dutchman, Christiaan Huygen between 1657-8. The device was quickly accepted and perfected in England, and by 1680, the best clocks were made in England.

Some of the great English clockmakers from that period include Fromanteel, East, and Knibb.

Josie doesn’t wear a watch because it always seems to get in the way when she’s working, but she loves clocks. “I admire precision and craftsmanship,” she says.

Antique Spoons

Spoons were first produced in Roman times, then lost favor, and weren’t widely used in Europe again until the Middle Ages. Also, spoons weren’t usually made in sets until the late 17th century—except for Apostle spoons, which generally came in sets of 13—one featuring each of the 12 Apostles, and one featuring the Master.

It's extremely rare to find complete sets.

.

Tips for Dating Handles & Pulls

Just as styles of furniture change over the years, so too do handles and pulls. Be careful, though, about relying on handles and pulls to date the furniture since they are frequently replaced to update a look. The earliest examples were made of iron. Brass came into common usage in the late 1600s. Many fine brass handles and pulls were gilded, and remnants of the gilt may still remain.

Authenticating American Silver

Unlike England, America has never had an organized system of marking silver. While most American silversmiths followed the English system, in New York, some makers followed the Dutch system. This lack of a single protocol can make authenticating American silver challenging!

Murano Glass

Murano glass is considered by collectors to be among the finest in the world. Many of the most valuable objects were produced in the post War boom from the late 1940s to the 1960s. One of the top studios is Venini & C, known for their dramatic color palettes and designs, such as this patchwork design. Signed examples in excellent condition sell for $4,000 or more.

Authenticating Ancient Maps:
Four Factors to Consider

"To determine the authenticity of old maps, in addition to all of the standard antiques appraisal procedures," Josie says, "there are four additional factors that should be considered."

"For instance, this map was purported to be a 1792 Jan Barent Elwe’s re-issue of the 1694 Jaillot copperplate, with updates to California and the Great Lakes; entitled Amerique Septentrionale. Amsterdam. It looks right, but you need to be careful. Since collecting maps has gained in popularity, a lot of fakes have shown up in the market."

The four factors to consider are:

1. Is there a dot matrix pattern? Use an 8X-power magnifying lens, a loupe, to see whether there are tell-tale signs of photo-reproduction: You should NOT see a matrix of little dots in the image.
2. There should be a fold mark running down the center of the map. Most of the antique maps that have survived until today were produced for atlases. Any map bigger than a standard sheet of paper would probably have straddled two pages; thus it would have a fold down the middle so as to fit into the atlas when closed. Maps manufactured in the 20th century were meant primarily to be mounted on a wall as decoration, and lack these folds.
3. Most maps produced before the middle of the 19th century were copper engravings. This process creates a little ridge, called a plate mark, around the edge of the map—the result of the plate pressing against the paper. While wood cuts and lithographs do not have plate marks, the absence of a plate mark on a pre-1840 map should raise a red flag, because of the prevalence of copper engraving during that period.
4. Almost all maps made before 1800 used hand-laid paper. This kind of paper was made by pouring paper pulp into a wooden frame. The frame bottom was made of wire mesh in a cross-hatched pattern, which left a mark in the paper.

"We determined this map was genuine," Josie says.

The official Prescott’s auction catalogue lists the estimated value as $2,200 to $2,500.

Antiques and Collectibles:
Ten Ways to Tell if You've Been Had

"It's easy to lose your shirt when buying antiques and collectibles," Jane says. She reports that there's a growing problem with fake antiques and collectibles being available in the marketplace.

"With the increased popularity of on-line auctions and flea markets comes increased trouble. More selling opportunities demand more inventory, yet the availability of quality antiques and collectibles stays constant. On-line buying is even more problematic than buying from transient dealers—you lose the ability to look in someone's eyes and gauge their honesty."

To make certain the purchase is on the up-and-up, Jane recommends that you consider factors related to both your interactions with the seller and your observations about the object. "Most dealers operate their businesses with integrity, but some don't. Use these ten tips as a checklist to help ensure that you're buying what you think you are, not what some charlatan wants you to believe."

Tips for the Seller

1. Beware of pressure to buy "now." (i.e., The seller says the object is the only one, so you'd better "get it now." Remember, by definition, all antiques are unique.)

2. Ensure it's properly labeled. (By generally accepted standards, an object is only considered to be an antique if it's more than 50 years old. Otherwise, it's called a collectible. If an object is mislabeled, that's a red flag: Is the dealer ignorant? Or is the dealer trying to overstate the object's value?)

3. Confirm you understand what the seller is saying. For instance, if a dealer uses jargon, it's reasonable to ask for explanations. Keep asking for clarification until you're comfortable that you understand.

4. Check the facts. Statements such as these are false: "A little repair doesn't matter," and "All they did was give it a fresh coat of paint—it doesn't affect the price."

5. Research prices. Some sellers price the customer, not the object. (i.e., How much will this person pay for it?) If objects aren't priced and/or the seller can't explain the rationale of a price, that's a warning sign that you should be concerned.

"Ask questions, do research, and remember—caveat emptor—let the buyer beware."

Tips for the Buyer

Here are five tips from Josie to help you assess objects.

1. Look at details. Inspecting joints (i.e., dovetails vs. nails.); styles of handles or pulls (and look inside drawers to spot extra holes, a telltale sign of replacement); and accessories (i.e., escutcheons and locks are fairly easy to date) help authenticate original pieces.
2. Examine signatures. Marks, labels, and/or numbering patterns help reveal origins. (i.e., Frederick Remington sculptures, for instance, are among the most faked objects in the world. Very often, reproductions bear a number in the "x/y format," 45/100, for example, indicating that this piece is the forty-fifth of 100 units that were produced; however, Remington sculptures weren't limited editions. As long as orders were placed, sculptures were cast. A genuine Remington would therefore only be labeled "45.")
3. Consider condition. In most cases, you should expect to see normal wear and tear. Repairs, repainting, and other improvements reduce value. Also, look at the back- and undersides of furniture. They should appear clean and untouched. Stick a straight pin into a wormhole. If it's a fake (created to replicate an antique's look, for example), the pin will go straight down. Genuine wormholes aren't straight—they follow the winding path a worm actually takes.
4. Evaluate materials. Starting in the late 1600s, brass was commonly used in cabinet handles; before then, most were made of iron. Thus if you're told that a piece of furniture with brass handles dates from the early 1600, in all probability, either the handles have been replaced or the object has been misdated.
5. Know trends. Back in the 1980s, cookie jars were a popular collectible. Now, they're less fashionable. Expect to pay more for objects currently in vogue.

"And don't forget to trust your gut and use common sense," Josie adds. "If an offer sounds too good to be true, probably, it is."

Ceramics -- Transferware

This J & MP Bell of Glasgow fruit/punch bowl is a wonderful example of transferware (c.1860).

Transfer printing was invented in England in the mid-18th century and is still the most commonly used method of decorating ceramics in Europe and the United States. Paper, printed with a design in metallic oxides, is wrapped around the porcelain and burns off during firing.

The Ivory Test

The easiest way to find out if an object is made of  ivory is to perform the "hot pin" test.  Heat the tip of a pin until it’s red hot, then try and pierce the material.  If it is ivory, it will not go through.

If it is a composite material, then the pin should penetrate it easily—and it will leave a mark. Objects made of composite have little auction value. 

Wood Grain Patterns

The two variables that determine wood grain pattern are the part of the tree from which the plank is cut and the angle of the cut.  For example, quarter-sawn lumber shows grain that runs in straight lines, whereas flat-sawn boards displays a classic contour pattern. A curling pattern results from a cut at the  "Y" intersection between the trunk and a main branch.

Tips on Building a Valuable Collection

To build a valuable collection, select items that are out of favor and buy the best examples you can find. Cookie jars, for example, were a popular collectible in the 1980s, but are less popular today. Since the economic principle of supply and demand often dictates price — with softer demand, you’ll find lower prices. As with all collectibles — condition matters more than most other factors, so only buy undamaged objects.

Chests

Highboys, also called chest-on-stands, were introduced in England in about 1660. Charles II, restored to the monarchy at that time, returned to England with many foreign craftsmen.

By the early 18th century, the highboy had evolved into the tall boy – or chest-on-chest. The first tallboys were made of veneered or burl walnut, but by the middle of the century, mahogany veneers had become commonplace.

Be alert for mismatched pieces. Sometimes a chest was placed on a different stand for practical reasons, but the mismatch does diminish the object's value. To confirm that the two parts are original:

• Check that the visible wood and decorative details on both parts match.
• Confirm that the backboards are of the same wood and of similar quality and craftsmanship.
• Examine drawers looking for extra holes which indicate that handles have been changed.
• Look at the dovetailing on the drawers to ensure they’re fabricated in the same manner.
  

Cloisonné Enamel

Cloisonné is a French word meaning "enclosed in a cell." It’s used to refer to the enclosures made from bent copper wire that’s soldered or glued to metal in order to keep different colors of enamel separate form one another. Most experts agree that cloisonné reached its artistic peak during the Ming dynasty (1425-35).

The process begins with a bronze casting. A flat copper wire is then affixed in a decorative pattern and enamel is applied by brush to fill the "cloisons," or hollow areas. Each piece is kiln-fired, then ground and polished to a gold hue. The process (brushing on the enamel, kiln-firing, and grinding and polishing) is repeated three times.

About Half Dolls

Half-dolls, usually made of porcelain and bisque, are dainty figurines of female upper bodies, heads, and arms. They were enormously popular from the early 20th century until the 1940s when they all but disappeared. Sometimes the dolls were kept as is; other times, people added voluminous knitted, crocheted, or hand-stitched skirts and used them to cover everyday items like rolls of toilet paper or powder boxes.

If they were adorned with skirts, they were known as pincushion, dresser, or tea cozy dolls. Adding skirts was quite the craze for awhile, but no matter how lovingly the skirt was created, nor how beautiful it was, the enhancement didn't add anything to the doll's value. 

If a half-doll's arms were tucked against her body, the figurine could be produced cheaply, as one molded unit. Because they are easy to find and tend to lack desirable embellishments like flowered ribbons or baskets, they aren't much sought by serious collectors. 

Open-armed dolls are worth more. There are several reasons to account for their higher valuation. They are more vulnerable to breakage, which reduces the supply. And their more expressive faces and meticulously rendered details add to their popularity.

Finely crafted open-armed dolls would be likely to sell at auction for upwards of $500 each if they are in excellent condition. The commonly available molded examples generally available for between $15 and $20 each, depending on coloration and decorative details.

To pit your antiques appraisal skills against those of the world renowned antiques auction house, Leslie Hindman Auctioneers, take the free, interactive challenge: What's It Worth? You Be the Judge.

Hutches

“Hutches evolved from sideboards,” Josie says. “By the end of the seventeenth century, craftsman had begun to produce hutches with drawers for storage.”

Josie explains that you can often date pieces by the front legs. (The rear legs are usually plain.) The baluster leg (rounded and straight) was common in the early- to mid- eighteenth century.

In the late eighteenth century and the nineteenth century, the cabriole leg became popular.

About Maker Marks

Marks identify more than the maker. Many objects bear maker marks — furniture, silver, and porcelain, for instance. But some convey extra meaning. For instance, this mark, symbolizing "Augustus Rex," is from the prestigious porcelain factory, Meissen.

The monogram was used for objects found in the court of Elector August the Strong, founder of the Meissen factory, who later reigned over Poland as King August II.   

It was also used to mark objects selected for the court of his son, August III, who succeeded him in 1733. This mark was always applied by hand in underglaze blue. Because all of the marks were applied by hand, there's great variance in individual appearance. Further, several objects marked with the royal monogram were given as gift to royal or favored visitors.

In the fourth Josie Prescott Antiques Mystery, fiction mixes with fact. In the still untitled novel, Jane has King Augustus giving a vase to England's King George who in turn bestows it on his mistress, Henrietta Howard.

Jane swears she's not revealing another word about the plot.

Appraisal Resource:
Assessing a Catalog Listing

"Prior sale catalogues can serve as an important resource, but only if the catalogue writer did a good job," Josie says.  

"For instance, this casket is purported to have been made for St. Thomas Becket in about 1200," Josie explains.

"The most reliable guide is a catalogue prepared by Emile Molinier in 1903. The dimensions given by Molinier are within half a centimeter of those of the Drey casket and the subject matter is the same. However, the positioning of the apostles appears to be different, raising the question of whether this casket is the one referenced in the catalogue. It's complicated, especially since, if it's real, the value is close to incalculable — certainly in the many, many millions."

Valuation Tip

"The more complex the design, the more valuable to object," Josie says.

This lovely mold dates from the late nineteenth-century, and would sell for around $200 to $250.

This mold is noticeably more complex, probably a bit older, and is likely to sell for more than $300.

Determining a Table's Age

Josie warns furniture collectors to consider height in determining a table’s age. "People were shorter in previous centuries, so tables were lower," Josie explained.